Most mornings, rooting through my Office of perfume, pushing past the pink-washed, pyramidal iridescent Mauboussin water of perfume bottle with his wobbly bottom. Mauboussin is a big perfume. As a hot sundae fudge, the first face-to-face meeting — or minutes of wear, in this case - are delicious, but before long you can end up taking your stomach and drag the rest in the trash. Mauboussin can almost be too much of a good thing.
But this week an unusual cold wave settled in, and I wanted a perfume big, oriental, something that would go well with a mantle of sheep broad-shouldered, 1940s. Mauboussin was just the ticket. Maybe I developed an appetite stronger for sweets, but until the arrival of spring, the bottle will remain forward my perfume to the cabinet.
Christine developed Nagel Mauboussin, the Parisian jeweler first perfume, in 2000. It is an oriental affirmative, fruity with notes of plum, bergamot, mandarin, ice fishing, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose Turkish, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, cedar and vanilla. In perfumes: the A - Z Guide, Luca Turin described Mauboussin as "an oriental located somewhere between the first Kenzo Jungle and Theorema of Fendi" and gives it four stars.
I noticed that tuberose releases most perfume just before she died. Its perfume caramelize slightly and fills the living room before flowers - already oxidized golden - brown and fall off. For Mauboussin, it feels like Christine Nagel has chosen the only materials that were well past ripe but not quite rotten. Peaches, plums and mandarin oranges appear to have been raised on a radiator for a few days to the cassoulet. The roses, jasmine and ylang ylang were to disintegrate in Potpourri and sugar. All the strong smell, wood and incense dank softened away. Amber and vanilla feel fresh and dynamic.
The result is a perfume which might have scented the track in the collection of the Ballets Russians Yves Saint Laurent. When I smell Mauboussin I see Eggplant and rust coloured silk velvet fashioned in capes and twisted in chassis. It is a winter after dark fragrance which would be well mixed with the roar of the fires, smoking pipes, men and polished woodwork.
Mauboussin was similar to Yves Saint Laurent Opium or Coco Chanel wake and lasts all day. It will be your coat and leave a hint of patchouli and incense on your t-shirt the next day. Apply with a small helping hand. They are not Pepto Bismol for fragrance.
Mauboussin l'Eau de Parfum is available everywhere in the world of Sears to online stores, where a 50 ml tester can be obtained for about $20.
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